All the action is behind the counter in this squidgy slip of a Darlo eatery, where snaring one of the high-legged tables can be dicey, given the no-bookings-after-7pm thing.
Sashimi is sliced, tuna seared and copper pans are set to sizzle amid a rush of flames and smoke.
So what to order, when you know it's all going to be good? Daily specials beckon from the glass-backed wall menus, and sushi is rolled as you ponder, but all you really need to know is that owner Steve Hodges is a die-hard fish nerd.
There's tuna tartare - sweet darkish cubes to toss with chilli rings, chilli salt and capers; or steamed custard (chawan mushi style) flaked with mud crab, enoki, cress and black sesame.
The gleaming sashimi platter is full of extra treats, such as pickled seaweed and cucumber salad, and a thick fillet of cobia (wild kingfish) comes with caramelly onions and pine mushies. Even dessert is exciting: an eggy brulee with a suitably crackly top.
The SMH Good Food Guide 2011 is edited by Terry Durack and Joanna Savill. You can buy the guide at smhshop.com.au.
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